This setup makes it so turning the wheel is a deliberate move, not likely that I'd steer anywhere that I wasn't planning on going. The steering feels heavy in a way that is quite good. This adds up to steering effort on par with our 2015 Challenger. Then, The Fast ratio arms increase the leverage and reduce the turning revolutions of the steering wheel from approx 3 3/4 turns to 2 3/4. First, the F/F box is harder to turn than any original Mopar steering box. My Charger has a Firm Feel Stage 3 steering box with Fast Ratio Pitman and Idler arms. Power steering cars can use all the caster you can scrape up since they are so overboosted anyway. Because of the severe side loading of tire, the tire deforms and typically more heavily loads the outside edge of the tire than the inside edge.
#NEGATIVE CAMBER MANUAL#
Our light A body Mopars with manual steering and a slant six had almost ZERO Caster as the default setting mainly to make the car easier to steer. Negative Camber is typically used for road racing and circle track racing vehicles. For example, if it pulls to the left, I'll take a little caster out of the left or add a little to the right.Īs Crankee stated earlier, Caster aids in stability at the expense of steering effort. I'll drive the car and see if it shows a tendency to pull to one side or another.
#NEGATIVE CAMBER FULL#
It is usually not a problem though since rarely are we going fast enough to scrub the tires at full left or right.įor me, when I am doing a "bonehead" alignment to get a car mobile, I set the alignment cams as I previously suggested, then set the toe. My guess is that caster changes a bit through the full sweep.Įver notice how some cars exhibit a tilting in or out of the wheels as they go full left or right? Cars with extreme caster angles can actually raise the front end in low speed turns as wheel/tire tilts out and rides on the outside edge. The wheels are turned from full left to full right and the alignment rack instruments measure the angles through the range of travel and report the average. I learned front ends after getting screwed a couple of times by supposedly 'good' alignment shops.įrom what I have learned, caster is not actually measured like you'd think. My 95 V6 reg cab Dakota also did surprisingly well in handling with just 265/55's on stock 8" Durango wheels with stock settings however it did wear the outer tread more but it wasn't much but hear they get really pretty good after lowering. My bone stock but a slightly lowered 66 /6 Belvedere did damn good using 7" wide cop car wheels and 235/75 tires all the way around using 'sightly noticeable' camber. With stock suspension but with radial tires, I NEVER run stock alignment specs on these 50+ year old cars and most of the time, they love it. 1/8" toe or even a tad more can help in reducing tire wear when you have a lot of camber dialed in but I will try to go with less unless the car act 'darty'. Lots of camber helps high speed handling on curvy roads. More caster will get rid of the high speed wander but make slow speed steering a bit more strenuous like when parking. The closer to '0' caster you can get will allow easy steering at slow speeds but the car will usually wander a bit at higher speeds. I've had cars that allowed great adjustments too and have always ran a lot of camber and caster.
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